Mold is not a problem you want to deal with and fix later on,. Try as you may, once you get it there, you’ll probably be very unlikely to get rid of it. … The goal is to be able to build a home that is mold and moisture free.

If that can be done, insurance companies will be willing to offer mold coverage on the property and lenders might offer a slightly better financing rate, Perry says. “If that is the case and we can make it cost-neutral to the homeowner, that would be a wonderful thing,” he adds.

Stay away from standard drywall (aka gypsum board, sheetrock). Toxic mold loves this stuff. Focus on eliminating mold’s food source by using paperless wall board, (Georgia-Pacific’s DensArmor Plus), and CertainTeed’s Optima non-organic insulation, in the walls and its DryRight insulation in the ceiling cavities. The drywall needs to be installed with inorganic glues and tapes. WallSpan No Mold Joint Tape is a great complement to a moisture-resistant drywall installation. Like the ToughRock Mold-Guard drywall, this product is easily identifiable on the shelf because of its green color.  The joint tape features a self-adhesive and is easy to apply to drywall joints in preparation for the joint compound.Plus, the insulation is covered with  a permeable vapor barrier that allows for air exchange in cold, dry weather, but prevents humid air exchange on hot, muggy days.

A major issue for building a mold-free house is convincing builders to use a different process or material than the ones they’ve used for years – or one that costs a little more. The difference in cost to use paperless drywall is probably less than a faucet and couple lights over the vanity in the bathroom. People will say it’s double the cost of regular drywall, but the overall cost of drywall in a house is half a percent of the total cost. In a $250,000 house, that’s $1,250. Many people spend $3,000 on a vanity top. Would you rather have a mold-free house or a different vanity top?

In addition to the drywall, all the wooden structures of the house should be coated in a permanent anti-microbial spray. We suggest one developed by American Mold Guard but others are also available for protection against mildew.

Avoid ductwork for heating, ventilation, and air Cconditioning (HVAC). Dust can collect in ductwork, which mold can grow on. You can’t see what is going on in ducts. In order to avoid having ductwork in a house, you would have to use radiant in-floor heating, probably. And you may need to use more than one wall or window-mounted air conditioner. Probably small houses with open floor plans would work best with a ductwork-free design.

Ventilation is critical. Many of the latest and greatest home building ideas are extremely air-tight, for energy efficiency. So most modern homes have a heat recovery ventilator. It brings in fresh air without losing so much of the heat/coolness that is desired in the house. You might consider getting a larger one than is needed for the size of the house, or having more than one.

When building a slab foundation, insulating the slab would prevent the floors from becoming damp and clammy in the summertime.

No chip board, plywood, oriented strand board, or other composite wood products made with a lot of glue and formaldehyde. Most of us have chemical sensitivities. I’m trying to find products that don’t off-gas a lot. Plus cellulose in general is food for toxic mold.

BioStat is a breakthrough in chemistry that effectively prevents the growth of mold, mildew and other bacteria on a wide range of hard surfaces for extended periods up to 3 years. It is designed for interior use and is excellent for application in HVAC systems, carpet and upholstery, bedding, bathrooms and other areas subject to biological growth. Can be used as an additive to water based paint and wallpaper pastes. It is essentially non-toxic, odorless, colorless and requires no special handling or process, and is non-flammable.

Most mold removal methods treat mold as a physical substance instead of a biologic contaminate. An oxidative mold remediation treatment is an environmentally safe process designed specifically to address the unique challenges associated with bio-contamination including black mold and other toxic molds.

Traditional mold removal methods are designed to contain and remove inert hazardous materials like asbestos. In an attempt to remove bio-contamination, these methods were modified to address the removal of mold and  mildew contamination, but they are not effective in dealing with the unique challenges associated with bio-contaminate removal and control.

This modified process employs destructive/abrasive removal of surface contamination, air scrubbing to remove airborne contaminates created during abrasive removal, HEPA vacuuming to remove surface contamination remaining after abrasive removal, and the use of powerful antimicrobial pesticides intended to kill surviving bio-growth. While this protocol removes the visible bulk contamination, embedded mold spores that survive the process are still able germinate once the environment becomes favorable to mold growth.

New mold remediation protocols based upon Oxidative Remediation are specifically designed to solve the unique challenges associated with bio-contamination. These protocols address both fungal viability and fungal allergenicity. Fungal Viability is the potential for fungal growth when minimal growing conditions are met. Because mold spores can remain in  dormant for decades, unless they are destroyed, they remain viable. An immune response or allergic reaction to mold when exposed to the proteins common to fungi is common. An important fact is that all mold is classified as an irritant capable of creating an allergic reaction in those who are susceptible to its exposure.

As mentioned above, traditional remediation methods do not resolve the fungal viability issue because spores can easily survive the process. Sanding, vacuuming, and the use of powerful antimicrobial pesticides simply have no effect on fungal allergenicity, so to be effective, bio-remediation protocols must address growing and dormant mold as well as the fungal proteins that cause irritation and allergenic responses. Oxidative remediation converts proteins from a hyper-allergenic to a hypo-allergenic state.

Oxidative remediation is not only more effective against bio-contamination than traditional methods, but is also environmentally safe because the chemical byproducts generated during oxidation quickly break down into elemental oxygen and water. The process does not used chlorine, pesticides, poisons, heavy metals, or other environmentally dangerous chemicals, and there are no dangerous residues remaining after remediation. Because the chemistry is applied in a liquid form under pressure, it can penetrate deeply into porous surfaces, cracks and crevices where other methods cannot reach, and the end result is the most effective level of biologic decontamination.

The antimicrobial efficacy and product safety of biostatic coatings has undergone extensive testing and evaluation for over 30 years. In addition to EPA approval, the durable antimicrobial performance of biostatic coatings has been proven effective in test after test against a wide range of gram positive and gram negative bacteria, fungi, & algae. The antimicrobial benefits of biostatic chemicals have been used for decades in many industries. Today, biostatic technology is being widely used in the building and mold remediation industry as a safe and effective fungal inhibitor.

Architects, developers and builders can employ the benefits of Biostat with complete confidence and compliance with both state and federal regulations.

Biostatic antimicrobial technology does not contain volatile chemicals that are used in traditional pesticides and antifouling coatings. Biostatic coatings are chemically stable and will not leach, outgas or volatilize.

As buildings become more air tight, builders and architects are paying closer attention to materials that contain or leach volatile organic compounds (VOCs) or heavy metals. These pollutants pose a serious detriment to indoor air quality which can lead to sick building syndrome and respiratory illnesses. Because Biostat coatings are chemically stable, they not only provide durable antimicrobial protection, they are also safe for the environment and building occupants.

Biostat-500 is a powerful tool to protect surfaces from odors & stains causedby microorganisms, for protecting surfaces from deterioration from microorganisms, & for inhibiting the growth of microorganisms including bacteria, viruses, mold, mildew, & algae on a wide range of non-food contact surfaces.

When compared to many popular anti-fouling coatings, Biostat-500 is easier to apply, cost-effective, does not pose environmental concerns, does not dissipate or volatilize, & provides two years of antimicrobial protection.

The EPA has approved Biostat-500 for the following surfaces:

• Air Filter Fabrics & Foam Padding for Upholstery
• Athletic Uniforms & Sports Gear Fiberglass & Gelcoating
• Floors
• Bathroom Surfaces Kitchen Surfaces
• Bed Linens, Sheets, & Blankets Outdoor Equipment – Tents, Tarps, Sails
• Bed Mattress Pads
• Outdoor Furniture
• Bricks & Exterior Siding
• Roofing Material
• Carpets & Draperies
• Clothing – Outerwear/Underwear
• Shower Curtains
• Concrete
• Towels
• Counter Tops
• Drywall
• Washable Walls & Vinyl Wallpaper

Biostat-500 Product Claims

Surface applications, the following product claims have also been registered with the EPA:

• Provides an invisible, durable antimicrobial, microbiostatic finish on various surfaces
• Effectively inhibits the growth of bacteria, Viruses, mold/mildew & algae on various surfaces
• Protects against microbial deterioration, discoloration & odor
• Effective on washable surfaces & fixtures around the home & office
• Effective on concrete, fiberglass, porcelain, stainless steel, plastic, vinyl, & other hard surfaces
• Use on carpets to inhibit the growth of odor & stain causing bacteria, mold, & mildew and viruses
• Use on fabrics to inhibit the growth of odor & stain causing bacteria, mold, & mildew and viruses
• Non-flammable
• Provides anti-static properties to surfaces
• USDA Approved

It’s that time of year again. Most of the leaves have fallen from the trees and your rain gutters are in need of cleaning.

Why you need clean gutters

In a rainstorm, gutters route runoff from a very large surface, your home’s roof, to where it can drain away from the house. By doing so, they protect siding, windows, doors, and foundations from water damage and help prevent flooding in basements. That large surface becomes concentrated into a very specific space, your gutters and downspouts, so it better be working right.

For them to work properly, you gutters and downspouts must be clear of leaves and debris. If they aren’t, drain outlets will dam up and rainwater will fill the gutters, overflow, and eventually pull the gutters loose. Water that pools in troughs will rot wood gutters and rust sheet metal ones.

Plan to clean gutters at least twice a year—more often if the roof is directly beneath trees or you live in a region with frequent storms.

Rain flowing over windows, doors, and siding can rot fascia as well as door and window framing. It can erode the soil around your home and damage its foundation, and also cause a wet basement, mold, and mildew. Black mold can form, creating a dangerous health risk requiring costly mold removal.

How to clean your rain gutters: DIY

Think Safety First. Always use a solid, quality ladder to reach your gutters. Safety glasses and gloves are a good idea, too. And watch out for power lines.

It’s helpful to have a bucket for collecting debris and a dropcloth for protecting areas beneath the gutter.

Starting at a drain outlet at the low end of a gutter, use a narrow garden trowel to scoop out loose debris, working away from the drain outlet. It’s usually easiest to do this when the debris is slightly damp and pliable, not soggy or dried and encrusted.

Using an on-off high-pressure nozzle mounted at the end of a water hose, wash out each length of gutter, working toward the drain outlet. Try to avoid splattering mud all over your house. If necessary, use a stiff scrub brush to remove encrusted dirt.

If water doesn’t drain freely through the downspouts, try flushing the debris down them with a hose. If that doesn’t work, use a plumber’s auger (snake) to free and pull out the debris from the bottom or to push it through from the top.

There are lots of ways to do the cleaning. You can find inventions like tongs on an extension pole, shop vacuums with gutter nozzles or even a remote-controlled gutter-running robot. But most methods eventually involve getting on a ladder.

How to clean your rain gutters: hiring a handyman

You can hire a service to clean your gutters, but doing it yourself can save you $100 or more. But only take on this task if you can work safely from a ladder or the roof. If your roof is higher than a single story, you’re often better off hiring a pro. One way or the other don’t neglect this job because it can reduce water damage and moisture related problems.

Strainers and leaf-catching gutter systems

Strainers and leaf-catching gutter systems can be helpful, but most are not a complete solution. Debris eventually settles through them, and the screens must be removed to clean out the gutters. Also, some systems are very expensive. If you opt to buy a leaf-catching system, be sure it can be easily removed for cleaning.

Mold allergies are a common affliction that affects many people. If a mold allergy sufferer keeps houseplants, it is important for them to keep the soil of their houseplants free from mold. Mold in the soil of houseplants is common, but mold control on indoor plants can be done if you follow a few simple steps.

Causes of Moldy Soil

Mold likes high temperatures (mid 70°F), high humidity, darkness, and stagnant air.

How to Treat Mold in Houseplant Soil

When mold is discovered check to see if it is active (soft, fuzzy, smears easily) or dormant (powdery, easy to wipe). If it is active and it is in single plant, consider withdrawing it from the collection, and carefully remove and replace the top inch of soil from the pot. If it is in the dormant stage, allow the soil to become quite dry, then brush off the spores, working outdoors and (if possible) with a fan blowing the spores away. Some varieties of mold are toxic to humans, so please use great care. We suggest wearing rubber gloves and a dust mask to protect yourself to avoid the mycotoxins of toxic molds.

There are fungicides on the market that will kill the mold, check with your local nursery or garden center for an appropriate one, and use only according to directions.

We prefer a more natural solution. Spray some white  or cider vinegar on the soil and let sit until dry. The acidity of the vinegar will kill mold and mildew. Also sprinkle some cinnamon over the soil. Cinnamon is a natural fungicide.

Prevention of Mold in Houseplant Soil

Start with sterile soil. When you bring a new plant into your home, repot it using sterile soil. Your plant may have come home from the nursery with mold in the soil. Gently remove all the soil from the plants root ball and repot in new, sterile soil. Most of the time, the potting soil you buy at the store has been sterilized already, but you can sterilize your soil in your oven if you want to make doubly sure.

Water only when dry. Houseplant mold normally happens when a plant is kept continually moist. This condition happens when you either over water or water on a schedule instead of by touch. Always check that the top of the soil is dry before you water your plants.

Add more light. Make sure your houseplant get plenty of sunlight and that the sunlight falls on the soil. More light is an excellent way to do mold control on indoor plants.

Use a fan. Mold in the soil will stop happening if you make sure that there is good air circulation around the plant. A simple oscillating fan set on low will help with this.

Trim dead leaves and stems. Dead leaves and other dead organic material add to the problem of houseplant mold.